Watch Jeff walk you through the process, or follow the detailed step-by-step guide below covering all case types.
How to Set a Lever Set Pocket Watch
1) Wind the Watch
A full wind ensures maximum running time and performance from a pocket watch's mainspring. Turn the crown until you feel a bit of tension. After a few more winds it will come to a stop. (A mechanism called the "click wheel" helps prevent overwinding.)
2) Access the Lever
This process depends on your lever set pocket watch's case configuration: screw-down bezel, snap or pressure bezel; hinged or hunter case.
Screw-down bezel case
The bezel unscrews in a counterclockwise direction. Be careful to grip the bezel, NOT the glass. Place the bezel down carefully — don't put any pressure on the inside of the crystal. The lever sits flush against the dial at approximately the six-minute position.
Pressure or snap bezel case
Work a pocket watch case opener — a knife with a small dull blade — into the seam at roughly the two o'clock position. (There's often a "nail notch" indicating where to apply the case opener.) Use a little pressure to move the blade toward the crown. Once the bezel pops free, set it down carefully — don't put any pressure on the inside of the crystal. The lever sits flush against the dial at approximately the six-minute position.
Hinged case
A hinged case has a "nail notch" around the two o'clock position to pry the case cover forwards to open. The lever sits flush against the dial at around the six o'clock position.
Hunter case
Press down on the winding stem/crown to pop open the front cover. The lever lives at around the 26-minute position.
3) Set the Time
Pull the lever out with a thumbnail or toothpick — nothing sharp! No force is needed, the lever will extend with a gentle pull. The winding crown now sets the time. Turn the crown to the correct time.
4) Replace the Lever
Gently push the lever back in towards the dial so it once again lies flush. Make sure it stays in while replacing the bezel.
5) Replace the Bezel
Screw-down bezel case — Gently place the bezel on the front threads. To prevent cross-threading, slowly turn the bezel counterclockwise until you hear a click. Then rotate the bezel to the right or clockwise, gently, until it sets. Screw it down until it's secure, but not too tight.
Pressure or snap bezel case — The front bezel will return home with a little downward pressure, delivering a "snap" closure. Apply pressure to the bezel, not the crystal. Work your way around the bezel to ensure it's set in place properly.
Hinged case — Swing the cover closed and press down gently until it snaps shut.
Hunter case — Press down on the front cover and the crown at the same time, then close the cover. When it's closed, release the crown. (This increases the case spring's longevity.)
